Saturday, July 31, 2010

Japan Holiday, July 31 (Who'll Stop The Rain)

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Day two also now as "Slow Saturday". There's only about four bands I wanted to see today and the main stage is headlined by Roxy Music - they started in 1971!

First band was Dirty Projectors, they also played yesterday but are filling in to do a second show, which worked out good for me. I liked their set a lot more than I was expecting. Even though their volume was quite acceptable I realised about half way through my right ear just hadn't stood up to yesterdays blasting. I had to hold my hand over my ear to block out some of the sound, as it felt like my ear drum was about to burst or start bleeding or something else undesirable. Made it to the end of the Projectors for an 8/10.

Dirty Projectors

Next in the tent was Detroit Social Club. I thought they'd be ok but into the first song and their volume was just crazy load. There was no way I was sitting through that, so left to get a spot on the hill at the main stage before Kula Shaker starts. I liked Kula Shaker's first album "K" back in 1996 but then they kind of disappeared (they've actually done just three albums since then). The first half of the set was pretty boring, but then they knocked out Hey Dude, Mystical Machine Gun, Tattva (with some Star Wars theme in the middle) and Hush to finish. Brilliant way to end and takes them from a 2/10 to a 6/10.

Kula Shaker

There wasn't much happening in the late afternoon, so we went back to the hotel for a few hours - I wasn't prepared to stand through one hour of Third Eye Blind just to hear Semi Charmed Life!

Back to the festival to see the end of John Fogerty (from CCR!) and just before we had to make the big hike to the white stage (in the dark) the first rain for the day arrived. I've discovered something that's worse than mud - when mud holes form and they fill with fresh rain, making big muddy rain puddles! So I stepped in a whole bunch of those as we headed to the white stage. For some reason EVERYONE at the festival was trying to do the same. The walk took at least 20 minutes down this muddy path, and it was raining. Good times.

We finally got to the packed, smaller white stage. Here's an idea for next year - put MGMT on the main stage and Roxy Music on the secondary stage. The rain wasn't letting up and I still had to wait for 30 minutes, the whole set of One Day As A Lion (new band with the lead singer from Rage) then 60 minutes of setup before MGMT were going to start. That was more standing that I could handle on a good day, so I bailed for the night. Kris and Lauren battled on, which makes me look pretty soft, but gave mixed reviews of MGMT and Lauren ended up sick 24 hours later, so I'd say it's a margin call.

Friday, July 30, 2010

Japan Holiday, July 30 (Hyper Music)

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First day of Fuji but not before a free breakfast! That's right, it's breakfast and it's free! Actually the accommodation here was damn expensive so it's the least they could do. Since the small hotel is family run it's a little bit more casual and traditional style breakfast, but still help yourself / all-you-can-eat style.

So off to Fuji Rock it was. The schedule was looking a little more suspect that I first thought, there's lots of overlap between the two biggest stages, and then periods when noone is playing on either. Pretty poor if you ask me. I walked around to get an idea of where the various stages were then stopped in for the end of The Bawdies. They're a Japanese band so I don't know what they were signing about, but it sounded ok. Next was Ash on the main stage. I know they had a hit years ago with Kung Fu but not much else. They played that one though, so it was worth it, I give them about a 4/10.

Smash Go Round !

The Bawdies

Ash. Too many people in chairs.

The Cribs !


My early observations after sitting down on the grass on the main (green) stage to see Ash. Why the hell does everyone have seats ? Why the hell does everyone have tarps to sit on ? Why the hell is everyone allowed to just reserve their spot by leaving all this junk in prime position, then come and go as they please ? Now I haven't been to a multi-day festival before, and I haven't been to a festival at all for a few years, but this just seems pretty ridiculous. The worst part is the people will all of this camping gear aren't really that far back from the stage. So if you want to go to the front you have to struggle through this maze, and if you want to sit you have to scan the hill for the occasional gap where people haven't pitched their seats down. It really seems quite selfish and inconvenient.

Hill for campers. Camping is the worst.

So I waited around at the green stage amongst all the jerks for The Cribs, the first band I was quite keen to see. I enjoyed their set and knew most of the songs, so about a 7/10. Mute Math came on next, who I was only vaguely familiar with. Still, some of the songs were pretty catchy and I'd give them a 5/10.

Mute Math

Leaving the main stage for the marquee tent now, where Broken Bells were playing - featuring James Mercer from The Shins! They've only got one album, and I liked it a lot. Playing live I guess I was expecting a performance worthy of The Shins. They were still good, but failed to live up to expectation and some of the songs were a little slow and long, another 7/10 performance. As their set was going I looked around to see the rain had started up and it wasn't happy. They must have constructed this tent poorly as small puddles were covering most of the floor. Not enough to be a problem (but for getting electrocuted) but means you can't sit down between sets (unless you brought a chair!).

I wasn't planning to stay in the tent for the The XX but the rain was quite convincing - and everyone else seemed to have the same idea. The XX were painfully slow, each song seemed to go for nearly 10 minutes and was pretty basic, 2/10. Luckily next up in the tent was the other band I was eager to see today, Broken Social Scene - unfortunately Feist wasn't touring with them though. I hadn't noticed until now, but I'd managed to make it this far into the day (about 8PM by now) without needing ear plugs and it didn't even feel like my ears were going to be ringing all night, a perfect scenario. That all changed when BSS got on stage. I fail to understand why a band needs to just blast their fans like that, it was the only downside to what was a nice set, particularly a couple of songs from their latest album that I like, 8/10.

The final choice of the day was between the grand stage show that is Muse, and the great !!! (Chk Chk Chk). I've seen them both before, but thought that !!! would provide a little bit more variety to the festival. However as we got to the green stage and saw how much grass had been turned into mud during the afternoon it looked like it would be both slow and very slippery to head past to the white stage for !!!. So, we stayed at Muse which wasn't a bad decision in the end, Muse know how to put on a great live show and every song is quality. A 9/10 and a good way to end the day.

Food

Crystal Palace, part of the overnight entertainment

Add these to the things I should have packed:
  • Folding Chair
  • Tarp / Plastic / Blanket to sit on
  • Ear Plugs

Thursday, July 29, 2010

Japan Holiday, July 29 (Have You Ever Seen The Rain)

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Time to head off to the country side, with the Fuji Rock Festival due to start on Friday - and something of an opening celebration and setup today. And here's where the benefit of having a big and small suitcase FINALLY came through. I anticipated it could be trouble having to take two suitcases on the train and bus and then however far it is to get to the ski resort/hotel where we're staying, so I jammed four days worth of clothes into my small suitcase and dumped the other one at a luggage storage place. The luggage storage was funny, it's outside of Tokyo Station and you have to go down two lifts to get there. When you step out there's about six guys sitting there doing no work, that seem delighted to see somebody.

Before getting on the Shinkansen to Echigo-Yuzawa there was time to look around the Tokyo basement shops. To my surprise there's a heap of great shops down here and each of the TV networks have a merchandise store too, brilliant! One of those stores even had a Hana Yori Dango poster on the wall, but sadly no other merchandise from the show. Most of them were selling merchandise related to animated shows, and somehow three different stores were selling One Piece - surely just one network has the rights to it.

From Yuzawa we got on a bus to Mt. Naeba where the festival is. The bus took about a half hour but mostly because the roads have to snake up and down the mountain side. It's quite a different scenario having gone from Tokyo to a town with one main street and a few hotels. By the time we arrived at the drop-off point not only had it started raining but it was bucketing down. We didn't know exactly where the hotel was either, so we're just running in the rain in the direction where most of the hotels seem to be, getting wetter by the minute. Luckily we found a place to take shelter while Kris went off with the only umbrella we collectively had to try and find the place. The good news was we had been going in the right direction, but still had a way to go. So off into the rain again, running with a suitcase (so glad I didn't have two at this point) and looking forward to getting out of this weather.

We all made it, without too much water damage, and had a chance to dry off. The rain had settled down, so we went back out to the main street to look for some umbrellas and wet weather gear, and to get our wristbands for the festival. We hadn't been out for more than five minutes when the rain started pouring again, I'm running through the rain and my eyes are pretty much stinging from all the water hitting my face. By the time we got to the general store I was soaked, but just happy to be out of the rain again. We loaded up on some plastic poncho things and I even bought an umbrella - I don't think I've ever owned or used one up until this day. Surprisingly they hadn't jacked up the prices either.

The massive Prince Hotel.

The not-so-massive main street.

As you can clearly see in this photo, I was the *only* person who didn't come prepared.

Using my fancy new umbrella (what an invention!) we headed down to the festival entrance and got the wristbands. I'd had enough of the rain though, so didn't stick around to see if there was any other activities going on (opening night fireworks were cancelled of course). However I've already realised I'm totally unequipped for the festival in the following ways (and more are set to follow):
  • No umbrella
  • No wet weather gear
  • No water-friendly shoes

Wednesday, July 28, 2010

Japan Holiday, July 28 (Maybe I'm A Lion)

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Last day in Tokyo. Yesterday I discovered there's a Square Enix Showcase just out of Shinjuku - for those that don't know Square = Final Fantasy and Enix = Dragon Quest/Warrior. I had some rough directions on how to get there, but once again it would have been real handy to have a compass (actually haven't had as much trouble getting around in Tokyo as the other cities for some reason). We finally got to the shop, but it was strangely located well away from the main shopping district of Shinjuku, there was mostly business offices and freeways nearby, so not great. The store was alright, since it was all video game stuff, but they could have done a lot more with it. Too much of the Slime character from Dragon Warrior and just a few of the popular Final Fantasy characters - soft toys and key rings mostly. I would have paid pretty much any amount for some kind of Parasite Eve OR Vagrant Story merchandise. They did have a cool Sepiroth model in the floor, I didn't get a photo but here is a link to one on their website.

From there I went back to Ikebukuro since I didn't get much time to look around previously. I actually found this place a bit more confusing to navigate than anywhere else, so I didn't risk trying to find West Gate Park, if there is actually such a place. Also went back to Harajuku, since it was a week day it was a lot less crowded and there was actually some room to move. Walked past the NHK Studios on the way back to Shibuya, I would have liked to have gone on the studio tour (and perhaps seen a life-sized Domo-kun, or a person in a suit at least) but it was only in Japanese.

Back in Ikebukuro.

Friends forever !

I tried to research how to get tickets for the Tokyo F.C. derby match that was on tonight, but it seemed like you had to register in advance and go in to a ballot for tickets. It's possible you could have got some from the Lawson convenience stores too, but given my last experience there I didn't think that would be very successful. So Kris suggested we go to a sports bar and check out the game, I wasn't that desperate to watch a soccer game but sure why not. So we found some English or Irish place that seemed like a sports bar of sorts, and Kris asks the guy if the game is on. The manager is basically clueless as to whether they even broadcast soccer games on television and that noone ever asks to watch the games (sounds a bit like the A-League). The TVs were just screening some baseball game instead, but noone really seemed to be watching. At "happy" hour in this place all the drinks were 500 yen, which didn't make me happy at all.

Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Japan Holiday, July 27 (Gotta Catch 'em All)

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Today I was doing some more exploring by myself. One thing that is a bit hard to adjust to in Japan is that the shops don't open until 10AM, and some 11AM. If you get up early on holidays (no work fatigue) like me, expecting to get a big day in, you're kind of stuck waiting for everyone else. Anyway, I went down to Minato which features the Tokyo Tower. I didn't go up to the top, in fact I didn't go right up to the tower base, I forget why. Within walking distance of that is the Pokemon Centre! Which is a small store selling only Pokemon stuff. So that was fun, and more Pokemon merchandise than I even knew existed, only problem was they had some annoying music playing the whole time, seemed like an 8-bit Gameboy theme.

Tokyo Tower. It looks great at night I've since discovered.

... the power that's inside ! Pokemon !

One station over and I was able to catch the "Yurikamome" to Odaiba. The Yurikamome is described as a driver-less train and a cross between a train and a bus, but it just seemed kind of like a monorail to me. Odaiba is an artificial island (reclaimed land) off the bay of Tokyo. I got off at the stop near Aqua City which is a shopping centre that mainly focuses on clothing. Right next door is another shopping centre called Tokyo Docks. The focus here seemed a bit more varied, and for some reason there was a heavy USA influence. Lots of USA food being sold too, I even came across a Cherry Coca-Cola! One of the levels is said to be set out to resemble a Hong Kong street, but I forgot to check it out. There was also another Sega Joypolis, this one cost 500 yen just to enter and I grabbed a pamphlet and all of the amusements seemed like they had a younger audience in mind.

Some train at Shimabashi station.

Aqua City at Odaiba.

Stepping outside the malls for a bit, there's a mini Statue Of Liberty to one side and the crazy looking Fuji TV Headquarters to the other. The area out by the bay here is really nice, there's even some artificial beach a bit further along. A Panasonic Centre which features lots of technology and demonstrations was somewhere down the street, but it looked like it wasn't near any of the train stops.

Fuji TV.

Liberty enlightening the world.

Looking back at Odaiba on the Yurikamome.

Took another visit to Akiba to go to their Yodobashi and Don Quixote stores. Inside the Donki there was a maid cafe on one level! From the time I got to see it going up and down the escalator there didn't seem be a lot to it, just the maids serving drinks to the customers. It looked like they assign the maids out one-to-one or close to it, at first I thought that would just be awkward, but then I forgot most of the point of the maid cafe is to be entertained and waited on.

Monday, July 26, 2010

Japan Holiday, July 26 (Queue If By Sea)

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Today is Disney Sea day! The happiest place on sea!

The Disney parks are east of Tokyo, so you have to take the city loop around to Tokyo station then about another 20 minutes on one of the local lines. To transfer platforms at Tokyo required at least 15 minutes of walking, and that's no exaggeration. The platform was way out of the way near where you board the long distance Shinkansen trains. After that you get to board the Disney themed - complete with Mickey shaped windows - train loop that stops at each of the two parks and the resort.


As we entered the park all of the footpaths were wet and there was a whole bunch of completely soaked people walking around. A little strange, but oh well. The park was already quite busy, so I headed all the way to the back for the Indiana Jones ride. The queue was 40 minutes, or you can get a fast pass and come back in about 75 minutes I think it was. I'll explain the fast pass. You can turn up at any one ride, see there's a MASSIVE queue and get a fast pass from the ticket machine instead. The fast pass allows you to come back at a designated time later in the day (you're given a one hour block to use it) and you get to go in a smaller "priority" queue, but still a queue, since everyone can get fast passes. As everyone takes the fast passes the time you can redeem it gets later and later in the day. The other catch, you can only get one fast pass every couple of hours or so - it says on your ticket when you can get another one. So, the fast pass isn't actually that fast or useful, but it helps a bit.

Park entrance.

Port Discovery. Had these two person sea carts, but you didn't get to steer yourself.

Storm Rider !

Everyone should be able to guess which ride this is.

Since we had a bit of a wait for Indy I tried to find a ride with a smaller queue to jump in. I came across 20000 Leagues Under The Sea which had about a 30 minute wait. After waiting about 10 minutes some staff guy walked down the line and was saying something. I looked around a minute later and suddenly I'm about the fifth last person in the queue? My guess was they're closing down the ride or something, and so they've stopped letting new people join the line. A couple of minutes later the guy comes back, says something in Japanese again and now EVERYONE is walking away. Great start.

So I found the Storm Rider instead, which only had a 15 minute wait - although that means it's either crap or efficient. Turns it out it is one of those "4D" rides where you watch the screen and get tossed around and such. It was alright, but it was just a generic theme about riding through storms and cyclones, rather than being about a Disney movie or anything - surely they could have got The Rock involved somehow.

So just in time for Indy now, we went in the fast pass line which took only about 5 minutes, not bad. The ride reminded me a bit of The Mummy ride at Universal Studios Hollywood, they didn't really capture the theme of the movies very much, you're just riding around in a cart and sometimes it was just darkness. They did have the big rolling boulder of course, but the ride was very mild, not even one big drop at the end!

Went exploring to see what else was around, and grabbed another fast past for Journey To The Centre Of The Earth. It think I grabbed the pass at about 12PM and it was for 6PM, not a good sign. Besides that the park is very spacious and as I got back to the start of the park I was in time for one of the regular water shows. Now I know why everyone was so wet, the front rows for the show just get blasted with water for several minutes. Fortunately or unfortunately I was over the other side of the lake at the time.

Water show.

I'm on a boat.

The Tower Of Terror, impressive construction for a ride.

This photo was taken at 1PM.

Steamboat Willie !

I lined up for the Tower Of Terror ride next. As I was entering the 60 minute queue (sigh) the woman monitoring the queue started saying stuff to me, the only word I understood was "little". Then she grabbed another staff member who gave me some kind of Wonka's Magic Ticket and I got to go in the fast queue instead. I think maybe because I was by myself, it helps to fill the numbers in the tower (elevator cart thing) as many of the rows fit three people I discovered later. So the fast pass still took quite a while, but it was worth it. You go through all this setup (in Japanese) then you're put in seats in this elevator thing. I buckled my seat belt only the shoulder strap was a bit tight. I tried to adjust it like you do in a car, only it had no give in it and only made it tighter. Stupidly I tried a second time, and that only made it worse again! So now I'm really well fastened into this cart and the ride is about to start. Anyway, it all turned out ok and the right was great, you basically just go up and down in this elevator thing, but twice they take you right to the top, open some kind of window so you can see out into the sky (which is a bit of a weird feeling) then they do that crazy drop thing where it feels like you're about to lose your insides. As I said, they do it a second time just for fun, great stuff. After the ride my seat belt wouldn't release! so I grabbed the guy next to me to help, he's forcing down on it and it still won't go, then finally when he went to get the staff I somehow managed to get it to release. What a relief!

With a bunch of time saved on that ride I had time to line up for Journey To The Centre Of The Earth before meeting up with Kris and Lauren. I figured I'd just take the hit and line up for 40 minutes rather than wait 4 hours for a fast pass. It is quite frustrating to see group after group of people go through the fast pass line though. The ride was pretty cool, you're in this little roller coaster carts inside the main "mountain" structure of the park. Lots of twisting and turning and the ride finally kicks up a gear. Unlike Indy you actually get some speed and drops happening, you even exit out of the mountain and get to see the park from above, but it comes and goes so quick you don't really get to appreciate it. Still, it was the second best behind Tower Of Terror.

Came back out in time for yet another Water Show, but the front rows were packed and it actually wasn't so warm now so I didn't really need to be soaked before jumping on a train. So that was the end of the day at Disney Sea, the only things I missed out on were a generic roller coaster called Raging Spirits and it might have nice to grab either the scenic Train or Boat that goes around the inside of the park. But no big deal.

On the way back I decided to stop off at Tokyo Dome City. It looked like there was a baseball game on at Tokyo Dome, but from what I could tell it just seemed to be a University team, or maybe some University All-Star game and not the Japanese baseball league. There was also a bunch of attractions near by, but I'd have enough of that for one day.


Had to change trains at Shinjuku, so got off for a bit of a look around first.


Sunday, July 25, 2010

Japan Holiday, July 25 (Harajuku Girls)

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Harajuku to start today, which is just one station from Shibuya, you could even walk it if you wanted, which I don't want to do right now as I'm getting blisters on my feet and still many days of Tokyo to get through. The main highlight of Harajuku is Yoyogi Park, although you can probably also access it from the next station which is called, believe it or not, Yoyogi. The paths in the park were really wide, so they must get a lot of people coming through, but perhaps because it was still early there wasn't so many there just yet. Supposedly on the Sunday is when all the cosplayers and other crazy people come out to play, but I didn't even see one of them!



Across to the other side of the city now, and my first visit (of many) to Akihabara (Akiba for short). Still no cosplayers! but there was lots of girls on the street advertising their maid cafes - a bit too strange and confusing for me. Akiba has a lot of electronic stores, anime/manga stores and video games - sounds like fun for me but not everyone else. So I'll come back and do some exploring on my own later.

Akiba is conveniently located right near Tokyo (and Ginza), so we had to stop there to book some train tickets and there was supposed to be a Disney ticket office nearby. We didn't find Disney, but we did find Godzilla! Kris and Lauren wanted to explore the Imperial east gardens (as in east of the Imperial Palace), so I went back to Akiba instead (good call it turns out, as the east gardens were a lot of walking for little reward).

Ginza


I searched through a whole bunch of stores, looking for interesting things to buy but really struggled to find anything. Obviously most of the electronics are designed for Japan, so they are out of the running. There wasn't nearly as much video game memorabilia as I was hoping for - there was some stores specialising in old games (NES, SNES etc.) but again they were all in Japanese, and only a little bit of Mario stuff. Most of the anime I was unfamiliar with - and 90% of it seemed to be One Piece - since I haven't watched any in years. So you really need to be up to date with your Japanese pop culture to get the most out of Akiba I think.



Stopped back at Harajuku in the afternoon and it was a totally different scenario. People everywhere, even a few cosplayers and performers outside the park. However the main reason for the crowds was the "Ayumi Hamasaki Rock n Roll Circus" about to begin at Yoyogi National Gymnasium - Ayumi being a Japanese female pop singer. Somehow everyone walking towards the gymnasium already had their tour t-shirts on, I really did not understand that.


Team Ayu Lady, better than Team Edward, that's for sure !

I went for a walk down Takeshita Dori in Harajuku which was ridiculously crowded, it was like being stuck in a wave, everyone was just moving down the street and nobody seemed to be going in or out of any of the stores. At the other end of the street is Omotesando (street) which has a Kiddy Land! store containing about six floors of merchandise stuff.


Harajuku station.



Walked back down to Shibuya and after meeting back up with Kris and Lauren we went to the Disney Store to buy tickets for tomorrow. A tough call, but we ended up going for Disney Sea rather than Disney Land.

Saturday, July 24, 2010

Japan Holiday, July 24 (IWGP)

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Another Shinkansen to Shinagawa in Tokyo. I think you can see Mt Fuji along the way if you're lucky, but I didn't know where or when to look. Also passed Yokohama the second biggest city in Japan, but we were underground or I was sleeping or something like that. From Shinagawa we had to get on a really crowded local subway train about eight stops to Shibuya. Not much fun keeping track of all the luggage and trying not to block people on the train. Thankfully my lack of Japanese knowledge included the words hidari (left) and migi (right) so I knew what side to move away from. Besides that and knowing numbers, I was staring blankly at people the rest of the time.

This time we found the hotel without too much trouble, only problem was it required walking uphill and up a flight of stairs to cross the road (beats waiting at an intersection...unless you're carrying something heavy). Dumped bags and went back down to Shibuya. The crossing here is said to be one of the busiest in the world and it did get a lot of people coming through in all directions, at any time of the day really. As I might have mentioned before, bicycles are very popular in Japan. In particular in Osaka I'd say, you just see rows and rows of bikes left on the footpath (not even chained up most of the time!), as it would definitely be preferable to driving around the city. Anyway, what you get at Shibuya crossing, and also in other places, is that as soon as the pedestrian crossings go green the cyclists take off through, across or around the crossing at the same time. I lost count of the amount of times a cyclist comes out of nowhere just as you're preparing to cross the street. I don't understand that rule at all.

Shibuya crossing

As I was exploring the main streets around Shibuya - Centre Gai, Dogenzaka, Koen etc. I found a place selling red bean pancakes in the shape of a fish! They had six varieties in all, not just red bean. I also finally started to see some vending machines selling soda other than Coke and Orange/Grape Fanta - some of my old friends were back: Dr Pepper! Mountain Dew! 7-Up Lemon Line! 7-Up Dry!? Yeah I don't know about that last one...

Some stores have water sprays to cool down passing pedestrians. Great idea.

I'm on Dogen-zaka !?

World's best sandwich


Two Godzilla's selling soda !

Didn't have a chance to research anything ahead of time, so just took the subway up to Ikebukuro for the evening. They have a large "Sunshine City" area which is a street mall and then a couple of buildings which contains a few level of shops, offices, then some restaurants and observation level right at the top. There was a Namja Land in there too, it looked something like the Sega Joypolis, except you had to buy a ticket or passport just to enter. So that all seemed a bit too much effort, but I was a bit sad I didn't get to go to Ice Cream Land! Did go up to the observatory level however, which provides a good overview of the city. But are these observations places worth the money ? I'd say only if they provide you something out of the ordinary: if it's just going to the top floor of a building then it's no big deal, but if the building itself is a landmark (e.g. Tokyo Tower) and you get to go outside then it's a lot better. It's also good if you can see other recognisible parts of the city, but Ikebukuro was a bit too far north for that.

Looking south-east, downtown Tokyo in the distance.

Shinjuku business district to the south.

Not much to the west (or north either), that big white thing is an incineration plant.

Down to Ikebukuro.

Still some time left in the day, so stopped off at Shinjuku on the way back. Did some more exploring, stopped off in a cafe that looked like a rip-off of Starbucks, right down to the logo. And...great news! you can still smoke indoors in some places in Japan! Also packets of cigarettes cost like $3, amazing. We were looking for some shrine in Shinjuku but must have gone too far, so the way back was through the Red Light district. It didn't seem dangerous at all, although it wasn't particularly late, however the haircuts all the men had was quite hilarious. I'm never seen so many of those big, layered haircuts on men before. Turns out the shrine was being renovated, so lesson of the day is to have a recent guide book with you.